Hello and good day! It’s Mike again bringing you the choicest of base kitchen cabinet plans free of cost. Today, we will be discussing how to build a juicy face frame base kitchen cabinet carcass.
As usual with my plans, I start with discussing the must-have hardware list to avoid any confusion as you proceed with this plan.
List of Must-Have Things
- Cabinet Plywood | Measurement ¾” | Width Measurement 22 ½”
- Pine Boards | 1X4 | required for top and bottom supports
- Matching wood species | 1X2 Boards | for face frames
- Plywood boards for back support | ¼”
- Pocket Hole Screws | 1 ¼”
For any given project, tools have an important role to play. These little helpful kits not only are helpful in easing the task, but they allow us to complete the projects in less time.
Getting down to the list of must-have Tools to Complete the Project
- Saw | Circular type
- Bit Set
- Tape Measure
- Speed Square
- Safety Glasses
- Hearing Protection
- Kreg Jig
It is always a good practice to read the plans completely before starting out. Whenever I get emails asking for help, the first question I ask is, “have you read the complete guide?”
Surprisingly, I observe a day or two delays in the replies I get, stating, “Mike, when I had emailed you a few days back, I had not gone through the complete tutorial. I was able to get the answer to the question I asked, thank you!”
This is one of the major reasons I stress upon the practice of reading the entire plan, in my every article, more than once before you begin.
Please follow all the safety precautions in this article as well as the product manuals that you get when you purchase the items.
Other helpful suggestions
- Keep your work area clean of debris or any foreign items that are not required for the project.
- Always ensure you adhere to working on a clean surface and ensure you use straight boards.
- Practice the habit of pre-drilling holes before doing any type of woodwork.
- Keep finish nails and glues out of children’s reach.
Let us get down to discuss the dimensional measurements of the project
The beauty of this cabinet is it can literally be customized to any desired width. Thus you have the added advantage of working out your space requirements and adjusting it accordingly.
The max stand height acceptable for the project is 34 ½”.
To keep the requirements clean and simple, I have added the complete measurement cut list in the following diagram below:
01. Have the plywood ripped with wide strips measuring 22 ½”. You might end up with some scrap after completing this step.
This can be used as a support board as you gradually progress with the project.
If you wish to attach face frames, you can drill Pocket Holes with a ¾” measurement.
02. Have the shelves neatly cut into wide strips measuring 22 ½”. This is to ensure you have sufficient plank requirements when you get to work on the bottom shelf piece.
One can also have additional shelves as well. You just need to cut the plywood boards as highlighted in step 2 with the same measurements. For fixed shelves, drill Pocket Holes measuring ¾” on the long side of the boards. You can use Pocket Hole Screws measuring 1 ¼” to have the sides attached.
If you find yourself getting confused with carcass width, it should be noted that the carcass can be ½” less in comparison to the overall width of the total cabinet dimensions.
03. Remember the leftover scrap strips that you had in step 1? You can comfortably use these scrap strips in this step to neatly square up your cabinet.
Further, you can place Pocket Holes measuring ¾” and use Pocket Hole Screws measuring 1 ¼” through them. Do not worry about these being visible, for you can have them covered in later steps.
04. You can further reuse the leftover scrap here in this step for attaching the remains to have a firm top support. Use these boards to have the base cabinet attached to the wall.
05. After completing the steps discussed above, you can proceed to build the footer measuring 1X4. It should be noted that the toe kick will be completely installed over top of the cabinet as we progress towards the end of the project.
06. Continue the project with building face frames with Pocket Hole measurements discussed above. Although one can use screws to have the grip firmly attached, you can also use a glue-nails combo to have much stronger grip, should you desire.
It should be noted that face frames are usually approximately ½” wider than the width of the carcass. This also gives you enough room when you begin to install the cabinet and to have the face frames neatly lined up to attain perfect levels.
07. Follow the steps mentioned in the following diagram to have face frames correctly placed.
08. After finishing step 7, you can proceed to have the finished gap measuring ½” as shown in the following diagram.
You need to have a gap of ½” between everything, for instance; drawers, overlay doors etc.
Post completion of the project, you can use wood fillers to cover any gaping holes that you find on the external surface. Nevertheless, one might also apply additional coats of wood fillers should one deem necessary.
Use a sand grit paper to sand the surface clean and wipe the project using a damp cloth. Check for the evenness of the surface and use wood conditioners or primers on an as-needed basis.
During the course of the project, if you hit any roadblocks, feel free to get in touch with me. Alternatively, you can join the discussions by commenting in the comment box below.